Oyuna Lugo sweater
It’s now autumn in the Northern hemisphere and that means time to unpack our winter sweaters. Unlike many synthetics cashmere withstands the test of time – and repeated wear. It just looks better too.
Cashmere used to be considered a luxury fabric. But over the past couple of years there has been a kind of explosion of inexpensive cashmere garments on the market. And if you get a lot of catalogs (which I do – dozens every week) or scroll through social media you’d believe that we were all living in cashmere sweats.
However, recently I discovered the actual “cost” of their production and was shocked. (Frankly, had already started to wonder how so many products, and so many companies could be offering so much cashmere at such low prices.)
Where it Comes From
Most cashmere is sourced from herds of goats in the Gobi Desert of Northern China and Mongolia. The finest cashmere comes from the Kashmir region in India, with smaller amounts from Afghanistan, Iran, Turkey, Kyrgyzstan and other Central Asian countries. These Kashmir goats, from where the fabric gets its name, have an outer layer for protection, and an inner layer, from which the fibers are shorn for the manufacturing of cashmere clothing.
The sad fact is that when that inner layer is gone they no longer have the same protection from the elements. And over-grazing has depleted their food supply. The situation became untenable, first and foremost for the goats, but also for the industry as a whole.
But a few years ago some of the more prominent companies began to address this by producing what is called “sustainable” cashmere. That means they are sourcing from smaller, cultivated herds with more sustainable grazing practices. Others are also using “off-cut” productions pieces of leftover cashmere, and even recycling old cashmere sweater material that has been returned (Eileen Fisher and Stella McCartney are leaders in this area.) Many of these companies proudly display their ratings and certifications from international sustainability agencies.
So, for this post I am only including manufacturers who adhere to highest standards of production in their supply chain. That includes treating the goats, the herders, and the workers right. Yes, you’re looking at – in many cases – higher prices. If that gives you pause, think about collecting one of these items for the long-run, a treasured item you will wear repeatedly for many, many years. You will always feel luxurious wearing it and comfortable knowing that it is something that respects the delicate balance in nature.
COS
COS blue cashmere sweater $190
COS Turtleneck sweater $225
COS was one of the earlier “minimalist” fashion houses (after Eileen Fisher) and has been offering well-made, simple, wearable items for quite a while. They pay close attention to their sourcing, which includes animal welfare social responsibility and the environment. Many of their styles are typically loose and slightly over-sized, as is the current fashion. They have a lot of sophisticated items in neutrals that are styled for Dramatic, Natural or Classic types. The blue pullover also comes in yellow and dusty pink. They also carry washable wool and wool-blend sweaters. Their cashmere sweaters run about $190-$240, so you are looking at things that are more mid to moderately-priced. If price is a concern, it’s worth checking out the entire site for their other items, so I’m linking the site as a whole here.
Cuyana
Cuyana Cashmere Wrap Sweater $285
Single origin recycled cashmere cardigan $225
Founded by Karla Gallardo, an Ecuadoran woman who earned a BA from Stanford, this company claims the motto “fewer things, better things.” (I’m making that my own personal motto! I just filled two bags for give-away.) Ninety six percent of their products are made from sustainable materials, and they maintain close ties with all the families and artisans worldwide in their supply chain. Much of their cashmere is recycled, but as they show, “single origin.” That means off cuts, not reused from old cashmere sweaters. Cuyana also carries a wide variety of classic, leather goods that might make nice gifts. This is their gift guide for the season. The wrap (beautiful for an autumn Earthy Rich type) also comes in black and camel. The cardigan comes in this seasonal passion fruit shade (that would suit an Earhty Rich, possibly a Subtle Blended/Earthy Rich combination too), plus a dark teal, black , beige, and stone.
Eileen Fisher
Eileen Fisher Aegean teal sweater $398
Eileen Fisher Italian cashmere tunic $378
As of now, Eileen Fisher only uses recycled cashmere from an Italian factory that recycles cutting room trimmings into “exceptionally fine yarns.” And this season, she is showing a little bit of pure cashmere, but mostly blends with silk or wool, also from sustainable sources. So, labor intensive work = higher cost of goods. But, as you will see, they are by no means the most expensive in the category of sustainable cashmere. Both the teal sweater and the olive tunic would work for many Earthy Rich color types. And the teal could possibly work for a SubtleBlended/ER combo.
It’s rare that they offer a variety of colors, as neutrals are their signature, but I’m showing a few here. Occasionally EF hits a sour note, in terms of style (rarely in quality) but they are pretty consistent in terms of sustainability. And although, yeah, their things look kind of boxy and uninteresting on the hanger, I find that the items I have purchased from them actually look beautiful and hang very elegantly in person. As for the price, it’s worth trolling the site for their sales.
Everlane
Everlane cashmere polo $145
Founded in 2010, Everlane, one of the companies I have featured in several previous posts, gained a reputation for what they call “radical transparency” from the start by offering customers a very detailed breakdown of how much it cost to make each item. Now they’ve taken that same detailed approach to their sourcing agencies. Their website (and my personal communications with their sustainability manager) offers what is probably the most complete and thorough description of their standards and certifications for each type of garment and textile they produce of any site I found so far. This is their lilac cashmere polo, a lovely color for Lively Bright or Subtle Blended/Lively Bright crossovers. Could also work for a Striking Contrast/Subtle Blended crossover.
Everlane stroopwaffle re-cashmere turtleneck $195
Everlane Crew in persimmon $125
This is their Stroopwaffle ReCashmere sweater in cobalt, for Lively Bright color types. It also comes is a Lively Bright ultramarine green, a warm Earthy Rich honey color, pale gray, dark charcoal, sand and bone. And the persimmon crew would work for an Earthy Rich autumn type. (It comes in 12 colors. including pecan, espresso, a vibrant key lime, stone, burnt orange, off white, charcoal, lilac, a dark taupe ans stone. )
Gentle Herd
Gentle Herd seamless boatneck sweater $125
This is how they describe their sourcing: “We have strict codes of practice for our goats and sheep protection…we vigorously monitor and control the size of the herd and their grazing…we uphold fair trade practices, and no animals are harmed in the making of our products…we also care for our workers.” (Well, that’s excerpted from a much more extensive explanation. Suffice to say they walk the talk of sustainability.)
Their sizes are limited (S-M-L) so prepared to get a “general” fit, which isn’t bad because a lot of cashmere items, especially this year, don’t have to fit the body closely. And, they are still one of the most reasonable in terms of price. It looks like they use natural dyes and there aren’t a lot of bright colors here. But they have a very wide variety of lovely items available. So you might want to just check out the whole site.
Gentle Herd cashmere hoodie $166 (on sale now)
Gentle Herd undyed turtleneck pullover $148
This (on the left) is a pretty cool hoodie that comes in seven colors including a rose shade that would be lovely on a Subtle Blended summer type, plus a warm brown, olive, taupe, and cream that could work for an Earthy Rich type. The gray and this blue would be best on a Lively Bright and possibly a Subtle Blended/Lively Bright crossover. And next to it is their undyed turtleneck pullover. Turtlenecks that are fitted like this one are Classic in style and this one is very Classic.
Naadam
I love their advertising and their motto: Soft stuff for hard people.” (It’s worth visiting their site just to see how they illustrate that.) This is another company started by two young entrepreneurs, Matthew Scanlan and Diederik Rijsemus. As college friends, they traveled to the remote parts of the Gobi Desert, became friends with local herders and interested in their work. They also figured out how they could pay them more for their textiles by cutting out the middle man, and providing cashmere quality items for less. They offer a lot of cashmere, plus recycled cashmere, and wool-cashmere blends. Their items range from the lower end to mid-range in price. But the least expensive do sell out pretty quickly, as do the brighter colors.
Naadam cropped v-neck $125
Naadam essential Crew $75
Naadam fisherman cardigan
This (on the left) is their seafoam cropped v-neck sweater. It’s slouchy and best for a Natural type. It also comes in winter white and black. And this next to it is their essential crew in blue. It comes in eleven colors but the sizes sell out very quickly. There are still some lovely ones available. Crew neck cashmere sweaters are typically Classic, but frankly I think just about everyone can wear them. On the right is an example of their 90% and 10% cashmere in a multi-use Natural and Classic fisherman-type cardigan.
Naked Cashmere
Naked Cashmere Lily cardigan in Bluebird $350
Naked cashmere Cherie crew in Olive $185
Among the pricier options, Naked meets all the requirements for sustainability in their sourcing and manufacturing including the use of recycled cashmere. They offer a fairly limited color range, but their items are sophisticated and well made. Here, too, the less expensive ones sell out pretty quickly. The v-neck cardigan also comes in a dark taupe that looks very much like one that I bought about 18 years ago at a shop that has now closed. I have been thinking to replace it because it is and always was too big. But as they say, if you hang on to something long enough it’s back in style! This one is ideal for a Subtle Blended color type, and possibly one of the pastels that can be worn by a Striking Contrast. And this (on the right) is their Cherie pullover in olive $185:
Oyuna
Oyuna Mountain sweater in beige $400
Oyuna Land sweater in Deep Blue $636
This is a British based company (they also sell to the US) founded in 2002 by a Mongolian woman named, Oyuna Tserendorj. That means she has a strong personal stake and commitment to the land and the people who are responsible for bringing much of the cashmere to the west. This is a very high-end company, offering stylish and elegant items and Oyuna is probably the priciest of the bunch. What you get for that price is a kind of European (and somewhat fashion-forward) sophistication. Much of her merchandise is in neutrals, like this beige crewneck that also comes in black and blush. But she also carries some very vibrant hues like this “deep blue” that would complement someone with cooler, Striking Contrast winter coloring.
Oyuna Lugo sweater in Magma $533
And this “magma” (also shown above) is a warm, rich orange that would work beautifully for either a Striking Contrast winter type, possibly an Earthy Rich autumn, or someone who is a combination of those two color types.
The Reformation
Reformation Cashmere cardigan set in blue $228
Reformation boyfriend crew $148
Skewing toward the youth market, this company shows some pretty skimpy things, like the uber-trendy cashmere bra/cropped cardigan combo. (If the purpose of cashmere is to keep you warm, what’s the point?) Regardless, they are pretty high up in the sustainability levels, and they do have some other beautiful, comfy looking things. And they are one of the few offering Romantic styles like the below This set also comes in a Subtle Blended Blush color, a very yellow-white, and a rich Earthy Rich chestnut brown. This (on the right) is their boyfriend sweater in camel. Camel works for Striking Contrast and Lively Bright, primarily. It also comes in a black and white stripe, an oatmeal stripe and a dark gray.
Reformation Hart cashmere pullover $198
The Reformation cashmere polo in olive $148
They are also on the cashmere polo bandwagon. This one comes in this olive, for an Earthy Rich, plus charcoal, one of the “black” shades that an ER can wear, and camel. And they are one of the very few that offer Romantic style items. Among those Romantic styled is this sweetheart neckline puffed sleeve pullover (on the right.) It also comes in cinnamon (a beautiful Earthy Rich color) oatmeal, and this gray.
Lastly, I want to add this “safety” note. My dear late friend June, who brought me a gorgeous cashmere sweater from her home in England (which I wore until it literally fell apart) always said that she never took her cashmere to the cleaners. She always washed it by hand, rolled it in a towel, and then laid it flat to dry. So, I have done that with several of mine. But frankly, it’s time consuming. And then there is the potential “honey I shrank the sweater!”
So, in that spirit I offer the following website, although I have never used this product. Let me know if you have! https://unshrinkit.com/
If you haven’t yet read Shopping for the Real You, or if you know someone who could use a little fashion – or emotional – inspiration, it would make a great birthday or holiday gift. Check out the reviews here.
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