The one garment that can elevate an outfit or that will save a blah one, is the right blazer or jacket. It can add polish and sophistication. It can dress an outfit up or down. It can hide the spaghetti stains on the blouse you forgot to wash!
A longer coat can say everything about your personal style.
In this, and coming posts, we’ll be looking at blazers, jackets and coats. But today we’ll specifically be looking at blazers since they’re so popular in the market right now. For all of those shown here I’ll describe them in terms of the primary color and style archetypes they convey. (I’ll link those to my related Pinterest pages for clarity the first time the term is mentioned.)
In earlier decades the blazer was considered a garment strictly for business attire. But now it serves as a stand-alone piece, not just part of a suit. It’s more often used as you would use a jacket. For that reason, it’s earned a place in almost every woman’s wardrobe for both business and casual events.
The difference between a blazer and a jacket is in the details. Those details also help determine which style of blazer might work for different style archetypes.
Classic Menswear Blazer
Image courtesy Harry Brown London: https://harrybrownlondon.com/
A woman’s Classic blazer is pretty much styled after a traditional version. It has a notched collar, pockets, sometimes a chest pocket, padded shoulders for structure, long sleeves, one single or two buttons, or is double-breasted with three buttons, and falls just slightly below the hip bone. The woman’s version is generally more fitted through the waist unless it’s intentionally meant to be boxy or oversized. And we’ve been seeing a LOT of the oversized versions in the past couple of years.
Typically, they are made in heavier menswear textiles like worsted wool, wool blends, heavier linen, and often in houndstooth or checked patterns. Those patterns are particularly popular for women right now.
Which One Suits You?
This year we have lots of options. We’re going to be seeing them in wonderful bright colors to suit just about every color harmony, along with the more traditional neutrals: black, navy, and tan. You’ll find them in menswear textiles, summer weight textiles, leathers and faux leathers, and knits. So, although they used to speak of “business” attire, we’re wearing them a lot with much more casual items, notably with jeans.
The more traditional structured versions will work particularly well for someone who has a fair amount (at least 20%) of Classic style. It can also bring some balance to your body shape if you tend to have sloping shoulders or would like a little more definition to your upper body. If you are an inverted triangle shape (broad shoulders, narrow waist and hips) you’d want to avoid the popular exaggerated shoulder and oversized Dramatic look, lest you look a little like David Byrne in Stop Making Sense.
Houndstooth or checked patterning and colors in some of these examples (below) would best suit Earthy Rich and Striking Contrast color types. The blue and brown one would likely work for a Subtle Blended, and possibly a Lively Bright.
You could wear any of these with black jeans, of course or even khakis, but more refined slacks will make a more formal statement.
As in that last example, one big current trend is the double-breasted blazer. It has a kind of nautical and more casual feel to it, especially if it has a row of brass buttons. The white one, below, especially as it is a clear white, is beautiful on a Striking Contrast color type. If it leaned more toward ivory, it could likely work for a Lively Bright or Earthy Rich. Unless you intend for it to be part of a suit “look” more casual slacks and definitely dark jeans would be a great combination.
Most color archetypes could wear some shade of Navy depending on how dark, or light, or cool it is. (I ordered the one here from Banana Republic, but it ran really big so keep that in mind if you want to try it.) A navy blazer can be part of a pant or skirt set, can elevate almost any kind of jeans, black, blue shades or what are very much in fashion now, white or ivory.
A traditional navy blue blazer is extremely versatile. This one from Nordstrom’s Halogen label leans mostly toward a Lively Bright’s version of navy (when you see it in other images especially.)
The black blazer is a Classic traditional that can work for Striking Contrast, Lively Bright, and some Earthy Rich types. Black is simply, by its nature, a somewhat dramatic neutral. It’s more intense than navy. It’s such a great wear-with-almost-anything piece and will sophisticate-up an outfit.
The fact that this one is labeled a “safari” blazer tells us that it has some Natural elements: more pockets and a less structured look. It would work well for a Natural/Dramatic style type. If it didn’t have the traditional lapels and was less fitted it would fall more into the ”jacket” category and be even more in line with the Natural type. It works beautifully with these wider-legged matching suit pants.
And we don’t want to neglect Angelics! We don’t usually associate blazers with this type. So if you are mostly an Angelic type you’d want to look for something that had an elongated structure to it and a soft appearing textile. This one fits the bill, and the asymmetrical placement of the single button moves it away from being strictly Classic.
Blazers in Summer Colors and Textiles
We’re seeing a whole lot of linen and all kinds of bright shades for the spring and summer. All of these below are among the other Pantone 2023 palette colors. (See my last post about their “2023 Color of the Year” Viva Magenta.)
Although this model is a combination of mostly Striking and some Earthy Rich, this color might also work for both Earthy Rich and some Lively Bright types. The blazer itself is strictly Classic, due to the structure and the herringbone textile.
The Tweed textile in this one is Classic, but the double row of brass buttons and the color/weave lighten up the whole look. On the website, it’s also shown with a simple button-down blouse. The blouse shown here adds some Romantic and Youthful elements, via the ruffles and gathers. The color is mostly Lively Bright. Jeans make it fun and casual. A pencil skirt and heels would make it more business-like.
This one has Youthful and Classic Elements. (It reminds me of my youth for some reason. Maybe it’s the gingham pattern, which was more popular when I was young.) The pattern, row of contrasting buttons, and the notched hem add a little High-Spirited playfulness what would otherwise be considered mostly Classic. The color combination suits a Lively Bright color type, primarily. It’s strictly informal. I can also see it with white jeans or slacks, shorts, or possibly even one of the longer skirts we’re seeing worn with sling back low heels or possibly sandals for the summer.
This aqua one, which is apparently part of a summer suit, might work for a few color types. For some it would appear as maybe an energetic color, for some it might be a refreshing one, and maybe for some, one of their calming eye colors. And you’ll be seeing a lot of these spring colors in suit sets.
If you’ve been a bit depressed with all the neutral colors available this past fall and winter you will be cheered by all the new pink we’ll be seeing. You’ll see it in lots of shades from pastel pinks to hot fuchsias. This first one could work a Lively Bright, and possibly a Subtle Blended/Lively Bright combination.
The next one would work for someone who was mostly a Striking Contrast and possibly had some Earthy Rich in their palette. Notice how they’re showing combinations of brighter, lighter colors for spring and summer. Cheerful!
This one is pretty much strictly for someone who is mostly a Striking Contrast color type. It would overwhelm a warmer or subtler skin tone. It makes one have SC envy!!
For Comfort-Seeking “Natural” Style Types
We’re seeing a lot of knit blazers right now. They are mostly styled after a traditional blazer but made of less tightly knit materials like worsted wools. You’ll find a lot of ponte-knit fabric. They’re unconstructed, meaning you won’t find strong squared-off padded shoulders and they will likely be unlined. Many of these are cotton or cotton/synthetic blend. They are packable but hold their shape nicely and are very versatile.
These next two are both from Quince and this version is offered in black, navy, and charcoal. (I plan to do a post soon about all the things I’ve bought from that company recently.)
They also offer this longer style with larger pockets in 100% organic cotton. It has more the feel of a cardigan and would work for someone with Classic/Natural style combinations.
For those with a lot of Earthy Rich coloring this version from Garnet Hill is another option. It also comes in Navy, a kind of charcoal shade, and “praline” a tan shade. It’s made from a combination of lyocell (rayon), nylon, wool, and spandex.
Because of the textile – 100% linen – the slightly dropped shoulder, and the color, this one is even more Natural. It would be a great summer piece to wear in places with air conditioning, or just to add some polish.
This shade of “driftwood” works for an Earthy Rich, primarily. It also comes in a clear white and black. It’s also from Quince.
Leather and Faux Leather Blazers
By nature, strongly reflective textiles suggest drama. That’s why leather typically appeals to a Dramatic style type. Since the leather and faux leather trend isn’t dying out anytime soon Dramatic types are in luck. But there are versions that can work for all styles, depending on the color and details. The longer and larger the cut, the more Drama it conveys.
So if your style isn’t dramatic and you just want to add something to your wardrobe that brings an outfit fashion-forward and adds a little bit of edge, a faux or real leather blazer could be that garment. Choosing a color other than a typical neutral – black, tan, navy – could brighten up and add pizzazz to your basics.
[Note: I had a faux leather bomber jacket that I absolutely loved and wore almost every day for years – literally. It even fooled my color analyst, friend, and mentor, John Kitchener, who thought it was genuine leather! Eventually the “faux” coating started falling apart and no efforts to revive it worked. I hope whoever picked it up found some way to use it. I’m still looking for a replacement. If you don’t plan on wearing a faux leather jacket every day for years on end, it will likely last a whole lot longer than mine did. Otherwise look for genuine leather.]
For Earthy Rich color types with some High Spirited style, the slightly cropped version here would be a nice addition. It’s part of a suit set and like we’re seeing in other blazer suits, faux leather is still going strong.
This one is genuine lambskin leather at a terrific price, and the color would probably look lovely on a variety of color types: Definitely for Subtle Blended, possibly for Earthy Rich and other color harmonies that have some of those two archetype colors in their mix.
This one has a shawl collar, not a notched one, giving it more “yin” qualities, along with the Nautical themes that work for a Classic. So it might be more suited to someone who is Classic and Romantic.
Now, if you really want to look fierce, you can opt for one of the popular longer styles in a bolder color. Oversized blazers are still having their moment. Since they are boxy by nature, wear a top underneath that is more fitted, regardless of your size or body shape. Or wear it over your mini skirt and bra top!!! If you dare!!! This wonderful color could work for an Earthy Rich, some Lively Bright combos, and some Striking combos.
If you want genuine leather, you have to increase your budget a bit. But for this color and at this price, it’s worth it. Lively Brights, some Earthy Rich types, and some Striking Contrasts could wear this shade.
And yeah, there is a pink one! This mightwork well for someone who had a somewhat Dramatic/ Natural style and some Lively Bright/Subtle Blended color combination in their palette. If you aren’t planning to wear the matching mini skirt, a pair of soft, slightly slouchy off-white pants and simple white tee could make it a fun spring/summer look. Keep the rest of the outfit pretty mono-colored. Let the blazer be the “wow” factor.
Cropped Blazers
It’s kind of a misnomer to call a cropped blazer-style jacket a blazer. A menswear cut blazer is something that is meant to appear somewhat suit-like, and complete an outfit without calling too much attention to itself. A cropped blazer, like the colorful leather ones, makes a more individual statement.
But get ready to see a lot or cropped jackets and blazers. In some cases, it can be kind of chic and cool. This first one could add a little pizzazz to a neutral outfit, particularly because it’s faux leather, like the next two. It could work for a Subtle Blended color type, primarily, and likely for one that also had some Earthy Rich in their palette.
This is how you’ll be seeing a lot of the cropped and squared-off (less fitted) blazers worn this summer. If you aren’t going to expose your midriff you can simply wear a tank or a full length tee underneath. A squared-off tank or tee would nicely complement the cut of the blazer.
This one has a lot of Youthful style qualities, (the company’s entire site leans Youthful.) It’s playful and less “starchy” because of the bunny print, buttonless closure, and shorter hem. They label this as a “suit” blazer, but that’s a stretch. Nevertheless, it serves similar purpose for casual or office/casual wear, it’s cute gets good reviews. (BTW – always check the reviews especially for sizing recommendations.)
I wanted to include these last ones because denim is a huge trend this year, more than ever. I’ll write about this in the coming months. This one is from Zara, so you might expect it to be trendy and a bit exaggerated. But they call it a blazer, it is in fact made from denim, has no button closure and carries through the still popular slouchy look. Not sure what I think of the proportions on the entire outfit but I love the color. It would probably work for Earthy Rich and some Lively Bright types, primarily.
This one from Gap shows how to style a blue denim blazer and look very stylish. The denim-with-denim trend is going strong this year. (BTW – when you shop at GAP, Old Navy, Banana Republic, or Athleta – which are all owned by the same company – always look for their daily discounts coupons. When they so have an actual sale, they often add additional discounts top the sale price and their returns are free.)
This last one is a funny combination. The cropped style gives it a little bit of High Spirited, the puffed shoulders are a bit exaggerated, giving it a tad of Drama but they are puffed and gathered, suggesting possibly a bit of Romantic or Youthful, the more defined waist add a bit of Romantic, and the metal button, western style stitching at the yoke and of course, the textile, are very Natural. So, it might work with several style essences worn with jeans or even over a long floral summer dress.
A Little History About Women Wearing Blazers
As a final note, I wanted to share a little information about how blazers became a trend for women’s wear.
Sarah Bernhardt in her “Boy’s Clothes” Photo: Heritage Images/Getty Images
Women have been wearing blazers for more than 100 years. One of the first adapters was actress Sarah Bernhardt who broke tradition by wearing what she called her “boy’s clothes.” It was her version of a power suit: fitted jacket with slim pants. By today’s standards it was pretty tame and actually quite chic. The ruffled sleeve blouse, soft neck scarf, and satin heeled slippers with a decorative bow add a very feminine touch. (We’d describe it as High Spirited and Romantic.)
Although it wasn’t a blazer as we know it, it opened the door for women wearing jackets in the same way that men did. Tailored jackets for women became commonplace by the early 1900s for sports activities like archery, horseback riding and walking. But by 1905 it was definitely a trend, worn with long skirts. In the WWII era 1940’s the jackets became a longer, the skirts became much shorter and the whole look was dubbed a “Victory Suit.” To this day, a blazer jacket says something about strength, power, and victory.
So, I hope you have enjoyed that little tidbit, and that all of this gives you some clues and options for blazer shopping and how to wear them. I really think they are a terrific garment to have in your wardrobe. I’ll be posting some photos soon about how I wear mine.
If you want to know more about how to style blazers and tops for your body shape there are several examples in my ebook, “She’s Got Good Jeans.” It’s just $2.99 on Kindle and free if you subscribe to Kindle Unlimited.
And stay tuned for two big announcements in March!
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